Portugal: Sintra, Evora & The Coast

Meet in Lisbon. Parques de Sintra forest walk; 4 miles, easy to moderate, 500-ft. elevation gain and 1,000-ft. elevation loss

Awakening refreshed, you enjoy an included breakfast at your hotel before meeting your group at 8:30 a.m. at the Hotel Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade in Lisbon. Your guide(s) will be wearing a Country Walkers shirt. After a brief introduction to the group, your adventure begins. Please be dressed in hiking shoes for the walk in the Sintra Forest.

Following a short introductory meeting you and your fellow adventurers travel 45 minutes to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of Europe, believed to be the end of the world until the 14th century. After a brief stop to admire this rugged coastline, continue (20 minutes) to the cool green hills of the Serra de Sintra, a stunning coastal mountain range. Nestled among the northern slopes, forested ravines and bubbling springs, the pastel-hued buildings of Sintra evoke images from a colorful storybook. It’s easy to understand why this scenic corner of Portugal was a favored summer retreat for kings. The stunning palaces they’ve left behind dominate this luxuriant landscape. Superb for exploring on foot, the historic area is rich in sublime scenery. Forests of eucalyptus, acacia, and pine stretch to rocky outcrops with distant ocean views. Scattered among the opulent royal palaces is an impressive array of cultural and historic sights, from stately manses and royal hunting lodges to castles clinging to hillsides. Walking through this fairy tale canvas is pure pleasure; it even inspired Lord Byron to proclaim it a “glorious Eden” and to pen his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

Your trail leads into the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where you stop for a lunch of local specialties, enjoyed on a scenic outdoor terrace. The town’s remarkable heart: the Palace of Sintra, lies just below. Its odd milk bottle-shaped chimneys set it apart, but the rest, as you discover while touring it, is grace personified: a blend of Gothic, Moorish, and Manueline styles that have been added and tweaked since the 14th century, when João I first built his retreat. The sprawling complex remained home to the Portuguese royal family until the 1880s.

Later, a two-hour drive delivers you to the rural hamlet of Alvados, a pocket of Portugal so remote that you won’t find it in typical guide books. Amid the dry-stone walls and ancient oak and olive trees, life has not changed much over the centuries, giving you a glimpse of Portugal’s authentic side. Upon arrival at your lodge, settle in and gather this evening for a welcome dinner featuring the bounty of the season. Numerous types of fish are found on most any Portuguese menu, from cod to red mullet. Beef, chicken, and pork are staples in agricultural provinces. No matter what’s on your plate, it is sure to have a Mediterranean influence, perhaps prepared with garlic, olive oil, and even saffron. This evening, your meal may include roasted cod enhanced with a medley of fresh vegetables from the property’s garden, perhaps finished by a chocolate lava cake and accompanied by a smooth Alentejo red or crisp white wine.

Accommodation: Cooking and Nature Hotel, Alvados, Portugal

Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros; 5.5-7.5 miles, easy to moderate, maximum of 1,100-ft. elevation gain and loss

The gentle rolling slopes of Alvados are truly captivating. Hills of lichen-covered limestone overlook the sinewy curves of emerald valleys and majestic rises marked by the striations of millennia. As you walk this mountain terrain, the play of light dazzles, setting ravines ablaze in yellows, ambers, and golds. Before embarking on the trail, enjoy the vistas as you sip your morning café com leite (coffee with steamed milk) and savor a breakfast of homemade preserves and breads, cheeses and cured meats. Fueled for the morning, you depart directly from the hotel to trek up to a scenic plateau, taking in expansive views of distant villages and hills within and beyond the Alvados Valley. A distinct geological feature of this region are the spectacular panoramas of wide polje, or karst fields. (A less strenuous option is to take a ride up to the ridge, where you meet the group for lunch, the traverse, and the descent.) Reward yourself with a delicious picnic lunch prepared by your hotel kitchen. Refreshed and renewed, you loop back to your lodge, descending into ancient olive tree groves and stretches of sylvan Mediterranean forest.

This afternoon, you may choose to indulge in the services of the spa, soaking in a warm pool, sinking in to a calming massage, or swimming in the outdoor pool surrounded by limestone hills.

Later, reconvene in the kitchen for a special cooking lesson. To whet your appetite for modern Portuguese gastronomy, get started with samples of local cheeses and olive oil before strolling through the herb garden, wine glass in hand, to source ingredients for your dinner menu. If you’d rather let someone else—such as the chef and your fellow travelers!—work in the kitchen, relax with a cocktail: The Honesty Bar is stocked with indigenous botanicals to mix into your gin and tonic. Drink in hand, your only job will be to take in the scenery and enjoy the unique aromas and flavors of Alvados while the bread bakes.

Accommodation: Cooking and Nature Hotel

Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros to Óbidos; 4.5 miles, easy

If you wish, begin your day early with an optional hike into the Fórnea Valley. Your path crosses a valley on a dirt road, passing lush vegetation and olive groves. The destination of your walk, through low shrub aromatic with lavender and rosemary, is Fórnea, a huge, U-shaped natural amphitheater created from the erosion of karst stone. Its walls soar to 672 feet! Along your trail, keep watch for rich bird life, including the short-toed and Bonelli’s eagle and the red-billed chough, a crow species with a red beak and red feet.

Later, transfer to the historic town of Batalha. The town’s literal translation is “battle,” a fitting name, perhaps, for it was founded by King D. João I to commemorate the Portuguese triumph over the Castilians at the 1385 Battle of Aljubarrota. Its centerpiece, a breathtaking Dominican monastery, is one of Portugal’s most important Gothic sites, with influence from the Manueline style. There’ll be time here to admire the stained-glass windows, some dating to 1514, and gaze up at the soaring vaulted nave. Wander through town, where you may stop at one of the charming cafes for an independent lunch. Continue to the beautiful whitewashed town of Óbidos, where you wander through town, stopping at one of the many charming cafés for an independent lunch. Later, settle into historic accommodations just below the converted hilltop castle.

Picture-postcard Óbidos enchants with its gleaming white facades and terra-cotta roofs, all tucked within a serpentine 14th-century crenellated wall and sentry-like watchtowers that crawl over hillsides. In 1282, King Dinis offered Óbidos to Queen Isabel of Aragon on their wedding day. Another famous marriage—between the future King Afonso V and his cousin Isabel, aged 10 and 8, respectively—took place in 1441 at the town’s Santa Maria church. At the time, Óbidos’s riverside locale close to the Atlantic made it a busy and prosperous port. But the river silted up in the 1500s. The town has since been restored and is one of Portugal’s most beautiful gems. Early evening, step out with your guide(s) for a short stroll through the labyrinth of cobbled streets.

Dine in the elegant restaurant within the castle walls, sampling a menu that is a worthy complement to your historic accommodations. Seasonal produce and locally sourced products are used in preparing traditional yet delicate recipes, from sea bream ceviche and cod, octopus, and cuttlefish to a traditional tartlet infused with egg yolk, sugar, and sweet pumpkin.

Accommodation: Pousada da Vila de Óbidos, Óbidos

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina via Setúbal Peninsula/Parque Natural da Arrábida; 5 miles, easy to moderate, 656-ft. elevation gain

Rise early and step out your hotel’s front door to witness Óbidos as it shakes off its slumber. Crowd-free streets and the hush of morning cast a magical air on this charming town that seems at its most authentic and pure at this hour of the day. After breakfast, transfer 90 minutes to the Setúbal Peninsula, located within the Parque Natural da Arrábida, dramatically situated between emerald-green hills and the blue Atlantic. Set off on a walk along the scenic trails of this magnificent region that enjoys a Mediterranean-like climate. As you trace the rugged, chalky coast, admire soft-sand crescent beaches lapped by white roiling surf. Refuel during a splendid midday meal at a luxurious wine-producing estate that transforms its grapes into the peninsula’s renowned vintages. During lunch, you of course have the chance to sample a glass or two and perhaps also try the farm’s popular Azeitão cheese.

Enjoy a stroll around the property before traveling south two hours to the Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina in the southwestern region of Baixo Alentejo. Soaring cliffs blanketed with pine trees and skirted by pristine beaches make this one of Europe’s best preserved coastlines. A rich biodiversity has emerged in this undisturbed corner of Portugal. During the next two days as you walk the Rota Vicentina, or Fishermen’s Trail, a stunning variety of vegetation, more than 20 species of birds, and other coastal fauna accompany you, as does a rich history: This long-distance path was long used by fishermen and locals to get to the best fishing areas and most secluded beaches.

After this very full day, settle in for the next three nights and the first of three delicious meals featuring the bounty of the nearby sea.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina; 5-10 miles, easy to moderate

Today’s more leisurely day begins with a hearty breakfast of eggs, hams and cheeses, and mini pastéis de nata, Portugal’s ubiquitous custard tarts. After, depart directly on foot to the trailhead to begin a breathtaking few hours of coastal walking over high ledges and through brush kissed by salty sea air. This is seaside Portugal at its most wild and you’re sure to marvel at its unspoiled drama at every turn. The Fishermen’s Trail leads you to high, dramatic cliffs on a path of red-hued earth and sandstone. As you walk, keep watch for the many species of bird that nest here: jackdaw, shag, common kestrel, peregrine falcon, and the pure rock dove, the original species of pigeon, are among them. Storks, too, have created a unique habitat here; this is the only place in the world where they nest on cliffs. Take your time and absorb the magnificent beauty at an easy pace, lingering at scenic outlooks or following a path down to an inviting beach. You reach the Cabo Sardão lighthouse midday, and stop to refuel at a nearby restaurant for lunch.

This afternoon, you might embark on an optional coastal walk to Praia do Almograve with your guides or return to the hotel via a short transfer to relax with a good book poolside or explore more of this bucolic area on your own. Later, gather with your fellow walkers for a transfer to the nearby town of Zambujeira, a lovely clifftop village overlooking the ocean. Enjoy dinner on your own this evening as the sun sets the sky ablaze while disappearing behind the Atlantic.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina: Praia de Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar; 9 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), elevation gain of 1,200 ft. and loss of 1,100 ft. or Praia da Azenha do Mar to Zambujeira do Mar; 6 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), same elevation gain/loss or Praia da Amalia to Zambujeira do Mar; 4 miles, easy to moderate, same elevation gain/loss

After another hearty breakfast, transfer to Ponta em Branco, the White Summit—so named for the distinct color of its sediment. From this dramatic perch, gaze upon Praia de Odeceixe. One of the area’s most beautiful beaches, it strikes a stunning pose against the backdrop of Mount Fóia, the highest point of the Serra de Monchique range. Nearby, the scenic Seix stream delineates the Alentejo and the Algarve regions of Portugal.

Today’s walk is more undulating as you ascend and descend from and to beaches of unimaginable beauty. Follow packed-dirt trails through pine, evergreen, oak, and eucalyptus forest and deep-sand paths through heath landscapes that hug the shore. It promises to be an invigorating day of inspiring vistas with ample surprises, perhaps even a surfer or two at Praia do Carvalhal. From Praia Odeceixe, continue walking the Fishermen’s Trail cliffs, formed over millennia by compressed sand, clay, and ash that once lay at the bottom of an ancient ocean. Gold-sand beaches caressed by white cresting waves unfold below. Locals use the hanging ropes you might see to access the sands and harvest shellfish.

Pause for a break and a cold drink at an outdoor restaurant in Azenha do Mar, which rests on an arresting natural fishing harbor encircled by towering rocks. Those preferring a slightly shorter walk today will begin here instead of at Praia Odeceixe. As you continue, you might encounter an endemic rabbit species from which all other rabbits are believed to have descended. Follow more scenic footpaths to Praia da Amalia, difficult to access except by foot. This beautiful beach, also the starting point for the day’s shortest walk option, was named for the house perched above, built by the beloved fado singer, Amalia Rodrigues. Renew yourself with a swim in the cool surf or wade in to refresh your feet and legs. After time here, continue to more magnificent vistas. Your walk concludes in Zambujeira do Mar. After time to linger in a café or peruse the small shops, return to your hotel, where there is time to relax before indulging in a festive dinner celebrating the week’s adventures.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril

After breakfast, you transfer 2.5 hours to Lisbon, where you may continue your exploration on your own or depart for onward travels.

Parques de Sintra forest walk; 4 miles, easy to moderate, 500-ft. elevation gain and 1,000-ft. elevation loss

Awakening refreshed, you enjoy an included breakfast at your hotel before meeting your group at 8:30 a.m. at the Hotel Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade (or Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel, October 4-10, 2021 tour only) in Lisbon. Your guide(s) will be wearing a Country Walkers shirt. After a brief introduction to the group, your adventure begins. Please be dressed in hiking shoes for the walk in the Sintra Forest.

Following a short introductory meeting, you and your fellow adventurers travel 45 minutes to Cabo da Roca. The westernmost point of Europe, until the 14th century the Cabo da Roca was believed to be the end of the world. After a brief stop to admire this rugged coastline, continue (20 minutes) to the cool green hills of the Serra de Sintra, a stunning coastal mountain range. Nestled among the northern slopes, forested ravines and bubbling springs, Sintra’s pastel-hued buildings evoke images from a colorful storybook. It’s easy to understand why this scenic corner of Portugal was a favored summer retreat for kings. The stunning palaces they’ve left behind dominate this luxuriant landscape. Superb for exploring on foot, the historical area is rich in sublime scenery—forests of eucalyptus, acacia, and pine stretch to rocky outcrops with distant ocean views. Scattered among the opulent royal palaces is an impressive array of cultural and historical sights, from stately manses and royal hunting lodges to hillside castles. Walking through this fairy tale is pure pleasure; it even inspired Lord Byron, who proclaimed it a “glorious Eden”, to pen his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

Your trail leads into Sintra’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where you stop for a lunch of local specialties, enjoyed on a scenic outdoor terrace. The town’s remarkable heart, the Palace of Sintra, lies just below. Though its distinctive, bottle-shaped chimneys may seem odd, the rest, as you discover while touring it, is grace personified. Gothic, Moorish, and Manueline styles have been added and tweaked since the 14th century when João I first built this retreat. This sprawling complex was home to the Portuguese royal family until the 1880s.

Later, a nearly two-hour drive delivers you to Évora, capital of the Alentejo region, and your base for the next two nights. Your boutique hotel was fashioned out of a palatial house located beside a 16th-century aqueduct within the city walls. Like the town itself, the hotel beautifully blends historical and contemporary styles.

After time to settle in and refresh, step out to the heart of Évora, and savor a memorable welcome dinner at a special restaurant near the town’s Roman temple. Your meal features locally sourced ingredients paired with wine from the restaurant’s own winery.

Accommodation: M’AR De AR Aqueduto Hotel & Spa, Évora
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

4-5 miles, easy to moderate and 2 miles, easy

Today’s walk in the Alentejo traverses typical Mediterranean landscapes dotted with cypress, pomegranate, fig, and ancient olive trees. You depart from the tiny, rural village of Outeiro and soon reach the first of many dolmens and menhirs scattered across the surrounding plains. The area boasts nearly 150 of these carved-rock monoliths and piled structures. Similar to those found in western Ireland, they date from the third and fourth millennia.

A sustained 30-minute climb along a cobbled path brings you to the picturesque hilltop village of Reguengos de Monsaraz, designated the European Wine Capital in 2015. (Your minibus and driver provide a lift up to the village for those who prefer to skip the climb.) From this vantage point you see a huge, modern dam and the Alqueva Lake on one side, and to the East, the Spanish border. Enjoy lunch with a view, dining at a restaurant with a scenic outdoor terrace. Afterward, there is time to stroll this atmospheric village whose cobbled slate streets with whitewashed houses retain an authentic feel. Pop into artisan studios, and be sure to visit the castle, which now houses a bullring within its walls!

Upon your return to Évora, you embark on a walking tour of this fascinating town with your guides—exploring the city’s historic center, including the ancient Roman Temple of Diana (or Temple of Évora) and the Cathedral of Évora, a massive Gothic structure begun in the 12th century. You also visit the Igreja de São Francisco, which features Gothic and baroque architecture and the skeleton-adorned Chapel of Bones. Once an important city for trading and religious purposes, today, Évora is a vibrant university town. Continue exploring on your own this evening and enjoy dinner at a restaurant of your choice, with recommendations from your guides.

Accommodation: M’AR De AR Aqueduto Hotel & Spa, Évora
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina; 4-5 miles, easy to moderate

Bid farewell to Évora and travel south (two hours) to the Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina in the southwestern region of Baixo (lower) Alentejo. Soaring cliffs blanketed with pine trees skirted by pristine beaches make this one of Europe’s best-preserved coastlines. In this undisturbed corner of Portugal, a rich biodiversity has emerged. During the next few days as you walk the Rota Vicentina, or Fishermen’s Trail, you’ll discover a stunning variety of vegetation, more than 20 species of birds, and other coastal fauna. This historical long-distance path was used by fishermen and locals to get to the best fishing areas and most-secluded beaches.

You reach the town of Cavaleiro and enjoy a midday meal of petiscos (small plates) ranging from local cheese and ham, to seafood and rice dishes. You depart on foot to begin a breathtaking few hours of coastal walking over high ledges and through brush kissed by salty sea air. This is seaside Portugal at its most wild and you’re sure to marvel at its unspoiled drama at every turn. Along this section of the Fishermen’s Trail, you’ll make your way from the Cabo Sardão lighthouse to high, dramatic cliffs on a path of red-hued earth and sandstone. As you walk, keep watch for the many species of bird that nest here: jackdaw, shag, common kestrel, peregrine falcon, and the pure rock dove (the original species of pigeon). Storks, too, have created a unique habitat here—this is the only place in the world where they nest on cliffs. Take your time and absorb the magnificent beauty at an easy pace, lingering at scenic outlooks or following paths down to inviting beaches.

You arrive on foot at your hotel—a cattle-breeding working estate run by the same family since 1826. Set on a tranquil 900 acres within view of the Atlantic Ocean, its thoughtful design keeps you connected to the Alentejo’s rural beauty, with outdoor terraces and open spaces that afford breathtaking views. Enjoy a welcome drink as the sun sets the sky ablaze while it disappears behind the Atlantic. Then, make your way to your hotel’s cozy restaurant for a delicious dinner of fresh cod (prepared one of 365 ways!) served with local seasonal vegetables, and paired, of course, with one of the region’s fine wines.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril, Zambujeira do Mar
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina: Praia de Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar; 9 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), elevation gain of 1,200 ft. and loss of 1,100 ft. or Praia da Azenha do Mar to Zambujeira do Mar; 6 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), same elevation gain/loss or Praia da Amalia to Zambujeira do Mar; 4 miles, easy to moderate, same elevation gain/loss

After another hearty breakfast, transfer to Ponta em Branco, the White Summit—so named for the distinct color of its sediment. From this dramatic perch, gaze upon Praia de Odeceixe. One of the area’s most beautiful beaches, which strikes a stunning pose against the backdrop of Mount Fóia, the highest point of the Serra de Monchique range. Nearby, the scenic Seix stream delineates the Alentejo and Algarve regions of Portugal.

Today’s walk is more undulating (and challenging!) as you ascend and descend to and from beaches of unimaginable beauty. Follow packed-dirt trails through pine, evergreen, oak, and eucalyptus forest, and deep-sand paths through heath landscapes that hug the shore. It promises to be an invigorating day of inspiring vistas with ample surprises; perhaps you’ll even spot a surfer or two at Praia do Carvalhal. From Praia Odeceixe, continue walking the Fishermen’s Trail cliffs, formed over millennia by compressed sand, clay, and ash that once lay at the bottom of an ancient ocean. Gold-sand beaches caressed by white, cresting waves unfold below. You might see the hanging ropes the locals use to access the sands and harvest shellfish.

Pause for a break and a cold drink at an outdoor restaurant in Azenha do Mar, which rests on an arresting natural fishing harbor encircled by towering rocks. Those preferring a slightly shorter walk today will begin here instead of at Praia Odeceixe. As you continue, you might encounter an endemic rabbit species from which all other rabbits are believed to have descended. Follow scenic footpaths to Praia da Amalia beach, which is difficult to access except by foot. This beach, also the starting point for the day’s shortest walk option, was named for the house perched above, built by the beloved fado singer, Amalia Rodrigues. Renew yourself with a swim in the cool surf or wade in to refresh your feet and legs. After time here, continue through more magnificent vistas. Your walk concludes in Zambujeira do Mar. Take time to linger in a café or peruse the small shops, then return to your hotel where you refresh and relax before dinner at a favorite restaurant featuring bounty from the sea.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril, Zambujeira do Mar
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina: Cavaleiro to Praia do Almograve; 5 miles, easy to moderate

After breakfast, you travel north to the Setúbal Peninsula, stopping en route for another walk along the Fishermen’s Trail. Today, you’ll make your way from Cavaleiro to Praia do Almograve, along a dramatic route with contrasting sights—black rock outcrops and vast expanses of golden, shifting sands. As the trail nudges near the edge of the beach, you’ll pass by rock pools teeming with marine life. Further inland, you’ll find the landscape blanketed by “ice” plants with colorful flowers that shimmer in the sunlight as though encased in ice. Approaching the fishing harbor of Porto das Lapas das Pombas, local traditions come to life, as fishermen pull in the catch of the day in a picturesque setting.

Refuel over a lunch of local specialties in the village of Almograve before continuing (via a two-hour minibus transfer) to your final destination—a luxurious wine-producing estate (quinta) that transforms its grapes into the peninsula’s renowned vintages. Settle in to your beautifully appointed room in the 17th-century manor house (or adjacent annex) and relax or take a stroll around the expansive grounds.

Reunite for the evening in the hotel’s elegant restaurant where you savor a meal that may incorporate traditional recipes from the estate’s library paired, of course, with a glass or two of one of the property’s vintages.

Accommodation: Casa Palmela, Setúbal
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Espichel Cape; 5 miles, easy to moderate, maximum elevation gain and loss of 985 ft.

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast, perhaps with a cup of café com leite, a Portuguese coffee-and-milk drink similar to a latte. Then, depart for this morning’s gorgeous walk along the Cabo Espichel, or Espichel Cape. Located on the southwestern tip of the Setúbal Peninsula, you’ll make your way through a primitive landscape of wind-blasted trees and towering cliffs with blue ocean waters glistening below. The peninsula boasts a series of spectacular hiking trails (your guide will choose the best route depending on the weather and trail conditions). Highlights along the way include the Cabo Espichel Lighthouse, the Chapel of Ermida da Memória, and two sets of dinosaur footprint fossils.

Lunch is at the restaurant of your choice in the picturesque fishing port of Sesimbra, nestled at the foothills of the Serra da Arrábida Natural Park. Your guides provide recommendations of where to try a meal of fried cuttlefish or another catch of the day. Then, return to your hotel with a stop en route in Azeitão for a wine tasting (and maybe a sample of the famous local cheese) and the opportunity to explore the town. Stop in at an artisan’s workshop for a closer look at the tile-making or other artisanal crafts and, perhaps, pick up a souvenir. Back at your accommodation, you’ll have time to relax in one of the hotel’s common spaces or poolside, a glass of the area’s famous muscatel in hand, or indulge in a spa treatment before gathering for a festive evening celebration to toast the week’s adventures.

Accommodation: Casa Palmela, Setúbal
Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

You depart this morning for Lisbon, Portugal’s vibrant capital, where you bid adeus (farewell) to your guides and travel companions to enjoy an evening on your own and an overnight in the city. The area around your hotel offers ample choices for lunch and dinner on your own.

Accommodation: Hotel Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade (or Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel, October 4-10, 2021 tour only)
Included Meals: Breakfast

Meet in Lisbon. Parques de Sintra forest walk; 4 miles, easy to moderate, 500-ft. elevation gain and 1,000-ft. elevation loss

Your guide(s) will meet you at 8:30 a.m. at the Hotel Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade in Lisbon and will be wearing a Country Walkers shirt. After a brief introduction to the group, your adventure begins. Please be dressed in hiking shoes for the walk in the Sintra Forest.

Your guide(s) will meet you at 8:30 a.m. at the Hotel Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade. Please be dressed in hiking shoes for the walk in the Parques de Sintra (Sintra Forest).

Following a short introductory meeting you and your fellow adventurers travel 45 minutes to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of Europe, believed to be the end of the world until the 14th century. After a brief stop to admire this rugged coastline, continue (20 minutes) to the cool green hills of the Serra de Sintra, a stunning coastal mountain range. Nestled among the northern slopes, forested ravines and bubbling springs, the pastel-hued buildings of Sintra evoke images from a colorful storybook. It’s easy to understand why this scenic corner of Portugal was a favored summer retreat for kings. The stunning palaces they’ve left behind dominate this luxuriant landscape. Superb for exploring on foot, the historic area is rich in sublime scenery. Forests of eucalyptus, acacia, and pine stretch to rocky outcrops with distant ocean views. Scattered among the opulent royal palaces is an impressive array of cultural and historic sights, from stately manses and royal hunting lodges to castles clinging to hillsides. Walking through this fairy tale canvas is pure pleasure; it even inspired Lord Byron to proclaim it a “glorious Eden” and to pen his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

Your trail leads into the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where you stop for a lunch of local specialties, enjoyed on a scenic outdoor terrace. The town’s remarkable heart: the Palace of Sintra, lies just below. Its odd milk bottle-shaped chimneys set it apart, but the rest, as you discover while touring it, is grace personified: a blend of Gothic, Moorish, and Manueline styles that have been added and tweaked since the 14th century, when João I first built his retreat. The sprawling complex remained home to the Portuguese royal family until the 1880s.

Later, a two-hour drive delivers you to the rural hamlet of Alvados, a pocket of Portugal so remote that you won’t find it in typical guide books. Amid the dry-stone walls and ancient oak and olive trees, life has not changed much over the centuries, giving you a glimpse of Portugal’s authentic side. Upon arrival at your lodge, settle in and gather this evening for a welcome dinner featuring the bounty of the season. Numerous types of fish are found on most any Portuguese menu, from cod to red mullet. Beef, chicken, and pork are staples in agricultural provinces. No matter what’s on your plate, it is sure to have a Mediterranean influence, perhaps prepared with garlic, olive oil, and even saffron. This evening, your meal may include roasted cod enhanced with a medley of fresh vegetables from the property’s garden, perhaps finished by a chocolate lava cake and accompanied by a smooth Alentejo red or crisp white wine.

Accommodation: Cooking and Nature Hotel, Alvados, Portugal

Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros; 5.5-7.5 miles, easy to moderate, maximum of 1,100-ft. elevation gain and loss

The gentle rolling slopes of Alvados are truly captivating. Hills of lichen-covered limestone overlook the sinewy curves of emerald valleys and majestic rises marked by the striations of millennia. As you walk this mountain terrain, the play of light dazzles, setting ravines ablaze in yellows, ambers, and golds. Before embarking on the trail, enjoy the vistas as you sip your morning café com leite (coffee with steamed milk) and savor a breakfast of homemade preserves and breads, cheeses and cured meats. Fueled for the morning, you depart directly from the hotel to trek up to a scenic plateau, taking in expansive views of distant villages and hills within and beyond the Alvados Valley. A distinct geological feature of this region are the spectacular panoramas of wide polje, or karst fields. (A less strenuous option is to take a ride up to the ridge, where you meet the group for lunch, the traverse, and the descent.) Reward yourself with a delicious picnic lunch prepared by your hotel kitchen. Refreshed and renewed, you loop back to your lodge, descending into ancient olive tree groves and stretches of sylvan Mediterranean forest.

This afternoon, you may choose to indulge in the services of the spa, soaking in a warm pool, sinking in to a calming massage, or swimming in the outdoor pool surrounded by limestone hills.

Later, reconvene in the kitchen for a special cooking lesson. To whet your appetite for modern Portuguese gastronomy, get started with samples of local cheeses and olive oil before strolling through the herb garden, wine glass in hand, to source ingredients for your dinner menu. If you’d rather let someone else—such as the chef and your fellow travelers!—work in the kitchen, relax with a cocktail: The Honesty Bar is stocked with indigenous botanicals to mix into your gin and tonic. Drink in hand, your only job will be to take in the scenery and enjoy the unique aromas and flavors of Alvados while the bread bakes.

Accommodation: Cooking and Nature Hotel

Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros to Óbidos; 4.5 miles, easy

If you wish, begin your day early with an optional hike into the Fórnea Valley. Your path crosses a valley on a dirt road, passing lush vegetation and olive groves. The destination of your walk, through low shrub aromatic with lavender and rosemary, is Fórnea, a huge, U-shaped natural amphitheater created from the erosion of karst stone. Its walls soar to 672 feet! Along your trail, keep watch for rich bird life, including the short-toed and Bonelli’s eagle and the red-billed chough, a crow species with a red beak and red feet.

Later, transfer to the historic town of Batalha. The town’s literal translation is “battle,” a fitting name, perhaps, for it was founded by King D. João I to commemorate the Portuguese triumph over the Castilians at the 1385 Battle of Aljubarrota. Its centerpiece, a breathtaking Dominican monastery, is one of Portugal’s most important Gothic sites, with influence from the Manueline style. There’ll be time here to admire the stained-glass windows, some dating to 1514, and gaze up at the soaring vaulted nave. Wander through town, where you may stop at one of the charming cafes for an independent lunch. Continue to the beautiful whitewashed town of Óbidos, where you wander through town, stopping at one of the many charming cafés for an independent lunch. Later, settle into historic accommodations just below the converted hilltop castle.

Picture-postcard Óbidos enchants with its gleaming white facades and terra-cotta roofs, all tucked within a serpentine 14th-century crenellated wall and sentry-like watchtowers that crawl over hillsides. In 1282, King Dinis offered Óbidos to Queen Isabel of Aragon on their wedding day. Another famous marriage—between the future King Afonso V and his cousin Isabel, aged 10 and 8, respectively—took place in 1441 at the town’s Santa Maria church. At the time, Óbidos’s riverside locale close to the Atlantic made it a busy and prosperous port. But the river silted up in the 1500s. The town has since been restored and is one of Portugal’s most beautiful gems. Early evening, step out with your guide(s) for a short stroll through the labyrinth of cobbled streets.

Dine in the elegant restaurant within the castle walls, sampling a menu that is a worthy complement to your historic accommodations. Seasonal produce and locally sourced products are used in preparing traditional yet delicate recipes, from sea bream ceviche and cod, octopus, and cuttlefish to a traditional tartlet infused with egg yolk, sugar, and sweet pumpkin.

Accommodation: Pousada da Vila de Óbidos, Óbidos

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina via Setúbal Peninsula/Parque Natural da Arrábida; 5 miles, easy to moderate, 656-ft. elevation gain

Rise early and step out your hotel’s front door to witness Óbidos as it shakes off its slumber. Crowd-free streets and the hush of morning cast a magical air on this charming town that seems at its most authentic and pure at this hour of the day. After breakfast, transfer 90 minutes to the Setúbal Peninsula, located within the Parque Natural da Arrábida, dramatically situated between emerald-green hills and the blue Atlantic. Set off on a walk along the scenic trails of this magnificent region that enjoys a Mediterranean-like climate. As you trace the rugged, chalky coast, admire soft-sand crescent beaches lapped by white roiling surf. Refuel during a splendid midday meal at a luxurious wine-producing estate that transforms its grapes into the peninsula’s renowned vintages. During lunch, you of course have the chance to sample a glass or two and perhaps also try the farm’s popular Azeitão cheese.

Enjoy a stroll around the property before traveling south two hours to the Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina in the southwestern region of Baixo Alentejo. Soaring cliffs blanketed with pine trees and skirted by pristine beaches make this one of Europe’s best preserved coastlines. A rich biodiversity has emerged in this undisturbed corner of Portugal. During the next two days as you walk the Rota Vicentina, or Fishermen’s Trail, a stunning variety of vegetation, more than 20 species of birds, and other coastal fauna accompany you, as does a rich history: This long-distance path was long used by fishermen and locals to get to the best fishing areas and most secluded beaches.

After this very full day, settle in for the next three nights and the first of three delicious meals featuring the bounty of the nearby sea.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina; 5-10 miles, easy to moderate

Today’s more leisurely day begins with a hearty breakfast of eggs, hams and cheeses, and mini pastéis de nata, Portugal’s ubiquitous custard tarts. After, depart directly on foot to the trailhead to begin a breathtaking few hours of coastal walking over high ledges and through brush kissed by salty sea air. This is seaside Portugal at its most wild and you’re sure to marvel at its unspoiled drama at every turn. The Fishermen’s Trail leads you to high, dramatic cliffs on a path of red-hued earth and sandstone. As you walk, keep watch for the many species of bird that nest here: jackdaw, shag, common kestrel, peregrine falcon, and the pure rock dove, the original species of pigeon, are among them. Storks, too, have created a unique habitat here; this is the only place in the world where they nest on cliffs. Take your time and absorb the magnificent beauty at an easy pace, lingering at scenic outlooks or following a path down to an inviting beach. You reach the Cabo Sardão lighthouse midday, and stop to refuel at a nearby restaurant for lunch.

This afternoon, you might embark on an optional coastal walk to Praia do Almograve with your guides or return to the hotel via a short transfer to relax with a good book poolside or explore more of this bucolic area on your own. Later, gather with your fellow walkers for a transfer to the nearby town of Zambujeira, a lovely clifftop village overlooking the ocean. Enjoy dinner on your own this evening as the sun sets the sky ablaze while disappearing behind the Atlantic.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina: Praia de Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar; 9 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), elevation gain of 1,200 ft. and loss of 1,100 ft. or Praia da Azenha do Mar to Zambujeira do Mar; 6 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), same elevation gain/loss or Praia da Amalia to Zambujeira do Mar; 4 miles, easy to moderate, same elevation gain/loss

After another hearty breakfast, transfer to Ponta em Branco, the White Summit—so named for the distinct color of its sediment. From this dramatic perch, gaze upon Praia de Odeceixe. One of the area’s most beautiful beaches, it strikes a stunning pose against the backdrop of Mount Fóia, the highest point of the Serra de Monchique range. Nearby, the scenic Seix stream delineates the Alentejo and the Algarve regions of Portugal.

Today’s walk is more undulating as you ascend and descend from and to beaches of unimaginable beauty. Follow packed-dirt trails through pine, evergreen, oak, and eucalyptus forest and deep-sand paths through heath landscapes that hug the shore. It promises to be an invigorating day of inspiring vistas with ample surprises, perhaps even a surfer or two at Praia do Carvalhal. From Praia Odeceixe, continue walking the Fishermen’s Trail cliffs, formed over millennia by compressed sand, clay, and ash that once lay at the bottom of an ancient ocean. Gold-sand beaches caressed by white cresting waves unfold below. Locals use the hanging ropes you might see to access the sands and harvest shellfish.

Pause for a break and a cold drink at an outdoor restaurant in Azenha do Mar, which rests on an arresting natural fishing harbor encircled by towering rocks. Those preferring a slightly shorter walk today will begin here instead of at Praia Odeceixe. As you continue, you might encounter an endemic rabbit species from which all other rabbits are believed to have descended. Follow more scenic footpaths to Praia da Amalia, difficult to access except by foot. This beautiful beach, also the starting point for the day’s shortest walk option, was named for the house perched above, built by the beloved fado singer, Amalia Rodrigues. Renew yourself with a swim in the cool surf or wade in to refresh your feet and legs. After time here, continue to more magnificent vistas. Your walk concludes in Zambujeira do Mar. After time to linger in a café or peruse the small shops, return to your hotel, where there is time to relax before indulging in a festive dinner celebrating the week’s adventures.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril

After breakfast, you transfer 2.5 hours to Lisbon, where you may continue your exploration on your own or depart for onward travels.

Parques de Sintra forest walk; 4 miles, easy to moderate, 500-ft. elevation gain and 1,000-ft. elevation loss

Your guide(s) will meet you at 8:30 a.m. at the Hotel Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade (or Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel, October 4-10, 2021 tour only) in Lisbon and will be wearing a Country Walkers shirt. After a brief introduction to the group, your adventure begins. Please be dressed in hiking shoes for the walk in the Parques de Sintra (Sintra Forest).

Following a short introductory meeting, you and your fellow adventurers travel 45 minutes to Cabo da Roca. The westernmost point of Europe, until the 14th century the Cabo da Roca was believed to be the end of the world. After a brief stop to admire this rugged coastline, continue (20 minutes) to the cool green hills of the Serra de Sintra, a stunning coastal mountain range. Nestled among the northern slopes, forested ravines and bubbling springs, Sintra’s pastel-hued buildings evoke images from a colorful storybook. It’s easy to understand why this scenic corner of Portugal was a favored summer retreat for kings. The stunning palaces they’ve left behind dominate this luxuriant landscape. Superb for exploring on foot, the historical area is rich in sublime scenery—forests of eucalyptus, acacia, and pine stretch to rocky outcrops with distant ocean views. Scattered among the opulent royal palaces is an impressive array of cultural and historical sights, from stately manses and royal hunting lodges to hillside castles. Walking through this fairy tale is pure pleasure; it even inspired Lord Byron, who proclaimed it a “glorious Eden”, to pen his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.

Your trail leads into Sintra’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where you stop for a lunch of local specialties, enjoyed on a scenic outdoor terrace. The town’s remarkable heart, the Palace of Sintra, lies just below. Though its distinctive, bottle-shaped chimneys may seem odd, the rest, as you discover while touring it, is grace personified. Gothic, Moorish, and Manueline styles have been added and tweaked since the 14th century when João I first built this retreat. This sprawling complex was home to the Portuguese royal family until the 1880s.

Later, a nearly two-hour drive delivers you to Évora, capital of the Alentejo region, and your base for the next two nights. Your boutique hotel was fashioned out of a palatial house located beside a 16th-century aqueduct within the city walls. Like the town itself, the hotel beautifully blends historical and contemporary styles.

After time to settle in and refresh, step out to the heart of Évora, and savor a memorable welcome dinner at a special restaurant near the town’s Roman temple. Your meal features locally sourced ingredients paired with wine from the restaurant’s own winery.

Accommodation: M’AR De AR Aqueduto Hotel & Spa, Évora
Included Meals: Lunch, Dinner

4-5 miles, easy to moderate and 2 miles, easy

Today’s walk in the Alentejo traverses typical Mediterranean landscapes dotted with cypress, pomegranate, fig, and ancient olive trees. You depart from the tiny, rural village of Outeiro and soon reach the first of many dolmens and menhirs scattered across the surrounding plains. The area boasts nearly 150 of these carved-rock monoliths and piled structures. Similar to those found in western Ireland, they date from the third and fourth millennia.

A sustained 30-minute climb along a cobbled path brings you to the picturesque hilltop village of Reguengos de Monsaraz, designated the European Wine Capital in 2015. (Your minibus and driver provide a lift up to the village for those who prefer to skip the climb.) From this vantage point you see a huge, modern dam and the Alqueva Lake on one side, and to the East, the Spanish border. Enjoy lunch with a view, dining at a restaurant with a scenic outdoor terrace. Afterward, there is time to stroll this atmospheric village whose cobbled slate streets with whitewashed houses retain an authentic feel. Pop into artisan studios, and be sure to visit the castle, which now houses a bullring within its walls!

Upon your return to Évora, you embark on a walking tour of this fascinating town with your guides—exploring the city’s historic center, including the ancient Roman Temple of Diana (or Temple of Évora) and the Cathedral of Évora, a massive Gothic structure begun in the 12th century. You also visit the Igreja de São Francisco, which features Gothic and baroque architecture and the skeleton-adorned Chapel of Bones. Once an important city for trading and religious purposes, today, Évora is a vibrant university town. Continue exploring on your own this evening and enjoy dinner at a restaurant of your choice, with recommendations from your guides.

Accommodation: M’AR De AR Aqueduto Hotel & Spa, Évora
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina; 4-5 miles, easy to moderate

Bid farewell to Évora and travel south (two hours) to the Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina in the southwestern region of Baixo (lower) Alentejo. Soaring cliffs blanketed with pine trees skirted by pristine beaches make this one of Europe’s best-preserved coastlines. In this undisturbed corner of Portugal, a rich biodiversity has emerged. During the next few days as you walk the Rota Vicentina, or Fishermen’s Trail, you’ll discover a stunning variety of vegetation, more than 20 species of birds, and other coastal fauna. This historical long-distance path was used by fishermen and locals to get to the best fishing areas and most-secluded beaches.

You reach the town of Cavaleiro and enjoy a midday meal of petiscos (small plates) ranging from local cheese and ham, to seafood and rice dishes. You depart on foot to begin a breathtaking few hours of coastal walking over high ledges and through brush kissed by salty sea air. This is seaside Portugal at its most wild and you’re sure to marvel at its unspoiled drama at every turn. Along this section of the Fishermen’s Trail, you’ll make your way from the Cabo Sardão lighthouse to high, dramatic cliffs on a path of red-hued earth and sandstone. As you walk, keep watch for the many species of bird that nest here: jackdaw, shag, common kestrel, peregrine falcon, and the pure rock dove (the original species of pigeon). Storks, too, have created a unique habitat here—this is the only place in the world where they nest on cliffs. Take your time and absorb the magnificent beauty at an easy pace, lingering at scenic outlooks or following paths down to inviting beaches.

You arrive on foot at your hotel—a cattle-breeding working estate run by the same family since 1826. Set on a tranquil 900 acres within view of the Atlantic Ocean, its thoughtful design keeps you connected to the Alentejo’s rural beauty, with outdoor terraces and open spaces that afford breathtaking views. Enjoy a welcome drink as the sun sets the sky ablaze while it disappears behind the Atlantic. Then, make your way to your hotel’s cozy restaurant for a delicious dinner of fresh cod (prepared one of 365 ways!) served with local seasonal vegetables, and paired, of course, with one of the region’s fine wines.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril, Zambujeira do Mar
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina: Praia de Odeceixe to Zambujeira do Mar; 9 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), elevation gain of 1,200 ft. and loss of 1,100 ft. or Praia da Azenha do Mar to Zambujeira do Mar; 6 miles, easy to moderate (with challenging sections), same elevation gain/loss or Praia da Amalia to Zambujeira do Mar; 4 miles, easy to moderate, same elevation gain/loss

After another hearty breakfast, transfer to Ponta em Branco, the White Summit—so named for the distinct color of its sediment. From this dramatic perch, gaze upon Praia de Odeceixe. One of the area’s most beautiful beaches, which strikes a stunning pose against the backdrop of Mount Fóia, the highest point of the Serra de Monchique range. Nearby, the scenic Seix stream delineates the Alentejo and Algarve regions of Portugal.

Today’s walk is more undulating (and challenging!) as you ascend and descend to and from beaches of unimaginable beauty. Follow packed-dirt trails through pine, evergreen, oak, and eucalyptus forest, and deep-sand paths through heath landscapes that hug the shore. It promises to be an invigorating day of inspiring vistas with ample surprises; perhaps you’ll even spot a surfer or two at Praia do Carvalhal. From Praia Odeceixe, continue walking the Fishermen’s Trail cliffs, formed over millennia by compressed sand, clay, and ash that once lay at the bottom of an ancient ocean. Gold-sand beaches caressed by white, cresting waves unfold below. You might see the hanging ropes the locals use to access the sands and harvest shellfish.

Pause for a break and a cold drink at an outdoor restaurant in Azenha do Mar, which rests on an arresting natural fishing harbor encircled by towering rocks. Those preferring a slightly shorter walk today will begin here instead of at Praia Odeceixe. As you continue, you might encounter an endemic rabbit species from which all other rabbits are believed to have descended. Follow scenic footpaths to Praia da Amalia beach, which is difficult to access except by foot. This beach, also the starting point for the day’s shortest walk option, was named for the house perched above, built by the beloved fado singer, Amalia Rodrigues. Renew yourself with a swim in the cool surf or wade in to refresh your feet and legs. After time here, continue through more magnificent vistas. Your walk concludes in Zambujeira do Mar. Take time to linger in a café or peruse the small shops, then return to your hotel where you refresh and relax before dinner at a favorite restaurant featuring bounty from the sea.

Accommodation: Herdade do Touril, Zambujeira do Mar
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Parque Natural do Costa Vicentina: Cavaleiro to Praia do Almograve; 5 miles, easy to moderate

After breakfast, you travel north to the Setúbal Peninsula, stopping en route for another walk along the Fishermen’s Trail. Today, you’ll make your way from Cavaleiro to Praia do Almograve, along a dramatic route with contrasting sights—black rock outcrops and vast expanses of golden, shifting sands. As the trail nudges near the edge of the beach, you’ll pass by rock pools teeming with marine life. Further inland, you’ll find the landscape blanketed by “ice” plants with colorful flowers that shimmer in the sunlight as though encased in ice. Approaching the fishing harbor of Porto das Lapas das Pombas, local traditions come to life, as fishermen pull in the catch of the day in a picturesque setting.

Refuel over a lunch of local specialties in the village of Almograve before continuing (via a two-hour minibus transfer) to your final destination—a luxurious wine-producing estate (quinta) that transforms its grapes into the peninsula’s renowned vintages. Settle in to your beautifully appointed room in the 17th-century manor house (or adjacent annex) and relax or take a stroll around the expansive grounds.

Reunite for the evening in the hotel’s elegant restaurant where you savor a meal that may incorporate traditional recipes from the estate’s library paired, of course, with a glass or two of one of the property’s vintages.

Accommodation: Casa Palmela, Setúbal
Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Espichel Cape; 5 miles, easy to moderate, maximum elevation gain and loss of 985 ft.

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast, perhaps with a cup of café com leite, a Portuguese coffee-and-milk drink similar to a latte. Then, depart for this morning’s gorgeous walk along the Cabo Espichel, or Espichel Cape. Located on the southwestern tip of the Setúbal Peninsula, you’ll make your way through a primitive landscape of wind-blasted trees and towering cliffs with blue ocean waters glistening below. The peninsula boasts a series of spectacular hiking trails (your guide will choose the best route depending on the weather and trail conditions). Highlights along the way include the Cabo Espichel Lighthouse, the Chapel of Ermida da Memória, and two sets of dinosaur footprint fossils.

Lunch is at the restaurant of your choice in the picturesque fishing port of Sesimbra, nestled at the foothills of the Serra da Arrábida Natural Park. Your guides provide recommendations of where to try a meal of fried cuttlefish or another catch of the day. Then, return to your hotel with a stop en route in Azeitão for a wine tasting (and maybe a sample of the famous local cheese) and the opportunity to explore the town. Stop in at an artisan’s workshop for a closer look at the tile-making or other artisanal crafts and, perhaps, pick up a souvenir. Back at your accommodation, you’ll have time to relax in one of the hotel’s common spaces or poolside, a glass of the area’s famous muscatel in hand, or indulge in a spa treatment before gathering for a festive evening celebration to toast the week’s adventures.

Accommodation: Casa Palmela, Setúbal
Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

Adeus! Your Portugal walking tour concludes after breakfast and a transfer to Lisbon (by 12:00 p.m.) Stay and continue exploring or depart for your onward travels.

Included Meals: Breakfast