Nova Scotia: Cape Breton Island

Your destination today is the lovely town of Baddeck, in the heart of Cape Breton Island. It is the official starting and ending point of the Cabot Trail, the coastal road around the northern tip of the island. Completed in 1932, the Cabot Trail is named for the English explorer John Cabot, who first sighted the island in 1497, staking England’s claim in North America. Baddeck is ideally situated on the northern shore of 60-mile-long Bras d’Or Lake. Alexander Graham Bell maintained his cherished summer home here for 37 years, and the nearby Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site houses a museum commemorating his work. Upon arrival, you can explore the town and its historical properties and shops, or relax at your charming inn.

4+ miles, easy. Total driving time: 2.25 hours

This morning, you can choose to meander through the Margaree River Valley, passing through the small communities that call the valley home. Perhaps you’ll consider fly-fishing in one of the local rivers or simply learning about the history of fishing in the area at the Salmon Museum. Make a visit to the shops and studios of renowned local crafters, including potters, painters, and quilters. Contributing to the area’s culture are the Scottish tenant farmers, or crofters, who came to Cape Breton Island in the early 1800s. Cast out of their highland homes by the English, the crofters brought many of their traditions with them when they settled in Cape Breton. Reaching Margaree Forks, you leave the Cabot Trail to arrive at Inverness, a scenic seaside community and top getaway for the golf set. Choose from two easy walks, the first along an idyllic boardwalk, and the second along a long stretch of soft sand at beautiful Inverness Beach. With the average ocean temperature hovering around 68°F, Inverness Beach is home to the warmest ocean waters north of the Carolinas (including Cape Cod and Long Island). Following a swim or refreshment at the beach café, you make your way south along the Ceilidh Trail (Hwy 19), which snakes along the western coast of Cape Breton Island. This area is renowned for its ceilidh music performances, square dances, and parties. Reaching Mabou, the hot spot of Cape Breton’s Celtic music scene, consider popping into the Red Shoe Pub, owned by the sisters of Nova Scotia’s popular musical family, the Rankins, for a pint or bite to eat. After enjoying the delights of Mabou, travel along country roads to secluded West Mabou Beach Provincial Park. Highlighted by a wide sweep of sandy beach backed by sandy dunes, the park offers several walking trails along the bluffs and through agricultural land and marshes, all with fine views. Your destination for the evening is North America’s first single-malt whiskey distillery (and inn) in the small town of Glenville, where a tour and tasting await. After dinner, be sure to visit the on-site pub to enjoy their daily ceilidh of Cape Breton music and musicians.

Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

5.2 miles, moderate, 1,100-ft. elevation gain and loss, with some steep sections. Optional walks: 2.9 miles, easy to moderate, 100-ft. elevation gain and 200-ft. elevation loss or 1 mile, easy to moderate, 50-ft. elevation gain and 200-ft. elevation loss. Total driving time: 1 hour

Today you enter the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, a truly stunning portion of the winding Cabot Trail. The Acadian Trail begins near the Chéticamp Visitor Center and rises almost 1,000 feet above the Chéticamp River. As you hike, admire panoramic views of the Acadian Coast, the river valley, and the park’s highland interior. Follow the trail as it winds to the top of Burnt Mountain, making your way through thick blueberry bushes, keeping an eye out for evidence of bear and moose. Should you prefer an easier walk option—or an additional walk option—head further up the Cabot Trail to Le Buttereau Trailhead. Here, you retrace the steps of the Acadian pioneers who traveled this cart path from Le Buttereau (a small settlement of seven families) to Chéticamp. Choose from an easy out-and-back walk or a longer loop option. Your home for the next two nights is the fishing village of Chéticamp, originally settled in the 1760s by exiled Acadians from the French territory further south when it was surrendered to the English. This vibrant community has maintained its cultural roots, as you can see from the exquisite hooked rugs and other crafts. Here in Chéticamp, you may also be able to catch a Celtic musical performance.

Included Meals: Breakfast

5.7 miles, easy to moderate, 400-ft. elevation gain and loss. Afternoon option: 4 miles, easy to moderate, 450-ft. elevation gain and loss. Total driving time: 1 hour

This morning’s walking route is the famous Skyline Trail, with its spectacular views from 1,000 feet above sea level. You don’t have to climb the whole way, as the trail begins at about 950 feet and reaches a maximum of 1,300 feet. From the dramatic headland cliff, you can trace the Cabot Trail around the mountainsides and, on a very clear day, you may be able to see the French archipelago of Les Îles de la Madeleine in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is not uncommon to sight whales in the water far below, and, along the trail, moose and eagles. After a picnic lunch, you may choose to set off on an exciting whale-watching boat tour out of Chéticamp—humpback, minke, pilot, and fin whales are common in this Gulf corridor, known as the Cape Breton Trough. Alternatively, the Corney Brook trail follows a meandering brook through mixed hardwood forest to a small waterfall—again, keep an eye out for moose, birds, and snowshoe hare.

Included Meals: Breakfast

0.3 miles, easy. 0.4 miles, easy. 4.8 miles, easy. Total driving time: 2 hours

This morning you have two easy (and very short) warm-up walks. The Bog trail takes you on a boardwalk through a highland plateau bog with interpretive plaques along the way introduce you to the fascinating flora and fauna that make up the bog’s unique ecosystem. The Lone Shieling loop trail begins at a historical crofter’s hut and leads through a hardwood forest of sugar maple trees, some of which are 350 years old! Continuing your drive along the northernmost part of the Cabot Trail to the White Point Trail, you’ll find some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in Cape Breton. Reaching a grassy point, you’ll gaze out to sweeping views of Aspy Bay, as waves crash on the rocky coast below. A small cemetery at the tip of the point dates back to the settlement of this area in the late 1700s. Return to the trailhead and continue to your day’s destination, the award-winning Keltic Lodge Resort & Spa, located on a peninsula jutting into the Atlantic, with a backdrop view of Cape Smokey.

Included Meals: Breakfast

4.6 miles, moderate with a challenging section, 1,150-ft. elevation gain and loss. Optional walks: 5 miles, easy and 2.4 miles, easy. Total driving time: 10 minutes

This morning, you may opt for the exhilarating walk up Franey Mountain, a steep and steady ascent through Acadian forest and a stand of hardwoods. Rising from sea level, your surroundings change to balsam fir, with trailing arbutus and pipsissewa underfoot. At Franey’s peak, you are rewarded with a panoramic view of the open sea with Middle Head and Cape Smokey to the east, Money Point to the south, and the Clyburn Valley below. Another walk available today (either instead of, or in addition to your morning outing), is a path through Clyburn Valley at the base of Franey Mountain. This riverside walk takes you on a path through spectacular stands of hardwood trees, impressive boulders (some bigger than cars!), old, abandoned beaver ponds, verdant meadows, and fragrant apple trees. You’ll pass the remains of an old gold mine—gold was never discovered in the area, and after years of fruitless effort, the mine finally closed in 1916. Returning to your resort, you may opt for a dip in the heated outdoor pool or enjoy the spa facilities. Those with more energy to burn may also choose to walk from the hotel on the Middle Head Trail that snakes along the cliff-bound peninsula that divides Ingonish Bay.

Included Meals: Breakfast

This morning, options include a relaxed stroll on the pink granite stones of Ingonish Beach, or perhaps a round of golf at the renowned Highland Links course, or indulging in the spa’s offerings before departing for onward travels. (Golf and spa fees are not included in the tour price, advance reservations required.)

Included Meals: Breakfast