From the Pearl of the Alps to Tito’s Playground: Exploring Slovenia & Istria

If you’re not sure whether you love hiking in the mountains more than scenic seaside walks, the Country Walkers Slovenia & Croatia: Lake Bled & Rovinj Guided Tour gives you both! Although Slovenia and Croatia are close neighbors, they have fascinating diversity in both landscapes and culture—making this an eye-opening adventure of discovery. “We visit two countries, and explore diverse terrain,” explains Country Walkers trip leader Vida Ungar. “We start in the mountains of Slovenia, which are on the sunny side of the Julian Alps. Then, we travel to the Croatian coast where we’ll enjoy the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic.” Along the way, you’ll experience the majesty of Slovenia’s Triglav National Park and its eponymous peak—the highest in the Julian Alps. In Croatia, you’ll explore Brijuni National Park—an island paradise that was once the home of former Yugoslavian leader Josep Broz, also known as Marshal Tito.

The Pearl of the Alps

Nestled in the cradle of the Julian Alps, Lake Bled shines like a pearl in the heart of the mountains. The only natural island in the nation of Slovenia, Bled Island is home to a fascinating monastery. Originally built in the 11th-century, the Church of Mary the Queen has a lofty bell tower with an enchanted bell said to grant wishes to those who ring it—making the monastery a popular pilgrimage site. To ferry pilgrims across the water, the iconic wooden pletna boat has been used on the lake since time immemorial. But, by the 18th-century, the vast number of pletna boats operating on the lake had become quite chaotic—leading to intervention by Holy Roman Empress Maria Theresa. “In classic Austrian style, Empress Maria Theresa decided to create an orderly system to manage boat traffic on Lake Bled,” explains Country Walkers trip leader Dani Lacko. “She granted the right to operate boats on the lake to a limited number of local families—and believe it or not, these families are still the only ones who can pilot Lake Bled’s pletna boats to this day.” As we embark on a pletna boat journey of our own, we will meet a descendant of one of Maria Theresa’s original pletna boat operators. “The captain of our boat actually made his boat by hand with his father,” explains Vida. “In their family, the right to operate the pletna on Lake Bled is passed down from father to the eldest son—and he hopes to pass it along to his own son one day.” Your alpine hotel is situated on the tranquil shores of this iconic lake—the perfect spot to watch pletna boats gliding across the lake’s pristine waters as you enjoy a traditional Slovenian breakfast.

Few things characterize the Slovenian landscape so much as the snowcapped peak of Triglav—the highest mountain in the Julian Alps. In Triglav National Park, our path leads us to the mountain’s stunning North Wall—a limestone monolith measuring over three kilometers wide and 1,000 meters high. Beneath this imposing backdrop, we’ll experience one of the mountain’s most treasured traditions—a visit to the Aljažev dom mountain hut, where hikers come to enjoy a meal and swap stories. “My favorite moment on this tour is our visit to an alpine mountain hut in Slovenia,” says Dani. “This is often the starting point for mountaineers climbing Triglav. There’s an old saying that goes—if you climb to the top of Triglav, you have become Slovenian.” With the iconic peak of Triglav as a backdrop, the mountain hut has been known to host all sorts of authentic Slovenian moments. “Once, when we visited Triglav, we had a very special, unexpected surprise,” recalls Vida. “By coincidence, there happened to be a choir group making a video of themselves singing outside the mountain hut. They sang a gorgeous a cappella rendition of the Slovenian traditional song Oj Triglav, moj dom, which means ‘Oh Triglav, my home.’ It was truly a magical moment.” As you explore the magnificence of Triglav National Park, you never know what marvels may come your way.

Wild Potato or Valuable Contraband?

As our journey continues, high mountain meadows gradually give way to a gentle, verdant river valley. Crossing the border into Croatia, the landscape transitions, and so does the cuisine. “There is a lot of scenic diversity on this adventure—and culinary diversity too,” explains Vida. “In Slovenia, we will enjoy the alpine cuisine—including local trout, and farm-raised chicken, seasonal fruits and vegetables, and locally-produced cheeses. In Slovenia, they have a strong tradition of raising cattle, which stay in the villages during the winter. In the summer, local families bring their cows to the high mountain passes where they can graze in cool alpine meadows.”

As we pass into the lush green fields of Croatia’s Mirna River Valley, we’ll discover one of their most celebrated natural resources—truffles. Today, these aromatic tubers are prized for their exceptional flavor—but that wasn’t always the case. “In Croatia, we’ll meet a truffle hunter and her dog,” says Vida. “She will talk about how she trains her dog and will tell us more about the history of truffles in the region. There was a time when truffles weren’t considered the delicacy they are today. Croatians called them ‘wild potatoes’ and fed them to their pigs. Now, of course, they are prized for their delicate flavor.” As time went on, enterprising Croatians learned that their “wild potatoes” were very much in demand on the other side of the Adriatic. “When the Croatian people discovered that Italians were willing to pay big bucks for truffles, that changed everything,” Dani explains. “When we were living under communism, it was not legal for people to earn money by owning a business. So naturally, families solved the problem by smuggling truffles out of the country to sell.” Today, truffles are big business—and you’ll have a delightful opportunity to sample black truffles, white truffles, and many delicious truffle-infused delicacies with our truffle-hunting friend, Daniela.

Fine Wines and Adriatic Influences

As our path winds down the Istrian peninsula to the stunning Adriatic coast, the heavy Italian influence is clearly evident. “People are often surprised by how much ancient Roman history they find in Istria,” explains Dani. “In the town of Pula, we’ll visit one of the most well-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world.” In large part, this is because the Adriatic Sea is quite a narrow body of water separating the Istrian Peninsula from Italy—and on a clear day it’s even possible to spot Venice across the water. “The town of Rovinj was once under Venetian rule, and there are many Italian details in its architecture and culture,” Vida explains. “Rovinj is often called Croatia’s Little Venice—but of course, the water of the Adriatic is much cleaner than the Venetian Lagoon, so in that way, we think it is even more beautiful.” Not only was the beauty of the Istrian Peninsula an attraction for the Romans, but the superlative local vintages were celebrated in ancient times. “People might be surprised by the excellent quality of Istrian wines,” says Vida. “But they are very well-known to wine enthusiasts. During the Roman Empire, Croatia produced some of the most prized vintages of the age.” Returning each evening to your delightful hotel on the Adriatic coast, you may choose to enjoy an array of exquisite local vintages in their lovely bar or seafront restaurant.

The beauty of the Istrian Peninsula attracted more than the ancient Romans. On Brijuni Island, you’ll explore the beautiful landscape that has enticed modern dignitaries to its gorgeous coastline. “Marshal Tito was a very important figure in Croatian history,” explains Dani. “On Brijuni Island, we’ll see where he entertained many celebrities and global dignitaries.” As you explore Brijuni National Park, you’ll pass several ancient Roman ruins and may even have time to explore the local museum that hosts many fascinating Tito artifacts—providing insightful glimpses into the lives of the leading figures of the Istrian Peninsula from ancient times to modern.