Greece: The Southern Coast

DAY 1

You meet as a group in Athens to enjoy a walk through the city, which familiarizes you with the location of some of the sites and museums that you may wish to visit upon your return.

A short climb up to the Hill of Philopappus brings you to the imposing Roman period funeral monument and extensive views of Athens and Piraeus. You then descend to the hill of the Pnyx, the area used in Classical Athens as the meeting place for the democratic assembly. You enter the historical Plaka area close to the Thiseion temple, dating back to the 5th century BC, meandering past the ancient Agora with the impressively restored Stoa of Attalus, Hadrian’s Library, and the picturesque Tower of the Winds. The route back leads up over the Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, directly below the Acropolis. Here, in 54 AD, Saint Paul preached his Sermon on an unknown God, as recorded in the Acts of the Apostles. Finally, you pass the Roman period Odeion of Herodes Atticus, which is still used as a summer venue for open-air concerts and theatrical performances.

This evening you dine at one of the finest tavernas in the popular Plaka district. Here you can sample local wines and traditional fare such as stuffed vine leaves, lamb and vegetables dishes, moussaka and baklava.
Herodion Hotel, Athens

DAY 2

Leaving Athens early in the morning for the southern coast, the first stop along the way is the spectacular Corinth Canal. This afternoon lunch is scheduled at a pleasant harbor taverna in the port of Kalamata. On arrival in the Outer Mani a walk takes you through the village of Sotirianika following dirt trails through olive groves to the deserted monastery of Agios Nikolaos.

You continue along a mule path and impressive stone bridge over the Koskarakas Gorge and to a dirt road leading to Kambos. Here, in the church of Agia Theodoroi, are some excellently preserved 18th-century frescoes painted by a local artist, which depict an unusual combination of biblical, historical, and pagan influences. The afternoon comes to a close with a visit to a Mycenean beehive tomb, reputedly the burial place of Machaon, son of Asclepios, the Greek god of healing.

Late in the afternoon you arrive in Kardamili, a charming fishing village located on the shores of the Messinian Gulf, with views of the dramatic Taygetus Mountain range behind. You receive a warm welcome at your friendly, family-owned property with shady gardens. This evening you sit down to a delicious dinner of local food in one of the village tavernas.
Esperides Apartments, Kardamili

DAY 3

After breakfast you transfer a short distance south to the outskirts of the village of Platsa, where you catch a glimpse of the leisurely morning life of the central square. A quiet lane leads down to the village of Pigi, which takes its name from the spring that provides fresh drinking water. From here, a scenic track brings you down to the sea at Platti Ammo, a quiet sandy beach fringed by tamarisk trees, where there is a chance for a quick swim before continuing to the nearby fishing village of Agios Nikolaos for lunch.

The afternoon continues from Agios Nikolaos, one of hundreds of similarly named seaside villages in Greece, following the shoreline and onto the small resort of Stoupa. Here you have time to enjoy a drink at a beach café or browse at the grocery store for local products, such as olive oil and honey, before returning to Kardamili. There may be time to explore the village or perhaps take another swim before dinner.
Esperides Apartments, Kardamili

DAY 4

This morning’s walk starts just a short drive from Kardamili, in Lefktro on the outskirts of Stoupa. You admire the colorful gardens of the hillside settlement before climbing quite steeply, out of the village, your exertions rewarded by magnificent views over Stoupa Bay. The trail then flattens out and continues through pleasant olive groves, affording glimpses of the high Taygetus peaks in the distance.

Crossing the Fonias Gorge via a beautiful stone bridge, you soon arrive in Proastio, a largely unspoilt village built of local sandstone. You meander through the picturesque streets and briefly visit a modern olive oil factory before relaxing over a picnic lunch under the welcome shade of a pine tree in the village square.

After lunch you may wish to return directly to Kardamili to relax at the hotel or on the beach. Alternatively you may opt for a pleasant afternoon walk, which first goes to the ruined monastery of Agios Georgis, concealed behind high walls on a cypress-clad hilltop, and then continues through fields and olive groves to the village of Petrovouni, directly above Kardamili. From here, you can walk, get a ride back to the hotel, or time and weather permitting, take the more circuitous route down to old Kardamili via the tiny village of Agia Sofia.
Esperides Apartments, Kardamili

DAY 5

This morning you depart for Areopolis, passing from the more fertile Exo (outer) Mani to the Barren mesa (inner) Mani. This is a historical route, as several of the villages along the way are mentioned by Homer and, in more recent history, many played an important role in the struggle for liberation from the Turks. In Areopolis you explore the picturesque historical section of the village before descending toward the sea, visiting the interior of a traditional tower house along the way.

Once down at Diros Bay you tour the impressive Glyfada sea caves. These caves, open to the public since 1963, are rated amongst the best of their kind in the world. Accompanied only by the splash of the boatman’s paddle and the dripping of water into the underground river, you glide through chambers containing curtains of delicate stalactites and serried ranks of stalagmites.

After a picnic lunch on the beach you also have a chance to visit the small, but fascinating, museum of artifacts from the Neolithic period that were recovered from the adjoining Alepotrypa (Foxhole) cave system.

This afternoon’s walk offers superb views and interesting traditional architecture as you walk from the outskirts of Pirgos Dirou through the village of Haria. Re-join the bus for a short journey down to our home for the next two nights, the Limeni Village hotel.
Limeni Village, Areopolis

DAY 6

Today’s first highlight is a visit to the partially restored tower village of Vathia, without a doubt the most photographed sight in the region, and still a powerful reminder of the local inhabitants’ chronic struggle to survive in this desperately poor land. A little further down the coast, beyond the bay of Marmari, you begin the day’s walk overlooking a dramatic seascape located a short distance from the most southerly point of mainland Greece and the second most southerly point in Europe. Today’s more challenging option is to hike to the lighthouse via Mianes, an isolated village high above the sea, still without electricity, telephone, or running water. The lower route, and easier option, will take you past the settlement of Kokinoghia and along the coast.

Both groups meet at the lighthouse, which stands proudly on the rocky promontory at Cape Tenero. Here you enjoy a picnic lunch before returning to explore the remains of the ancient settlement, which once played an important role in the history of this area. You end the day with a refreshing swim or a cold beverage, before returning to the hotel, where there is time to relax before dinner in the hotel restaurant.
Limeni Village, Areopolis

DAY 7

After breakfast you depart Areopolis for Gythion. According to mythology, this town was founded by Heracles and Apollo and was an important port in ancient times. Today, it serves as a commercial center for surrounding villages. You can stretch your legs during a brief stop before heading north, bound for the eastern foothills of Taygetus. From above the village of Agios Ioannis, you begin a walk along an ancient mule path to Anavriti (a 1½-hour gradual ascent). This once populous village is blessed with dozens of different fruit and nut trees and endless fresh running water. After a lunch in the village taverna you continue to the monastery of Faneromeni, occupied by one lone monk.

After a brief rest in the monastery garden you may choose to either board the bus and travel down to Sparta, where you will be able to explore the scant remains of this famous ancient city, or walk down to your hotel through the quiet village of “new” Mystras, following a scenic track with magnificent views.

This evening you enjoy another authentic Greek dinner in a local taverna.
Hotel Pyrgos Mystra, Mystras

DAY 8

After breakfast this morning's walk leaves right from the hotel. This route offers an ideal vantage point from which to view the entire ruined settlement and to gain an excellent impression of the size of this once glorious and important Byzantine city. You climb up through the city on the original cobbled streets, visiting several of the most important churches along the way, which miraculously are still adorned with beautifully executed frescoes, some dating back to the 13th century.

You exit the city via the upper gate, and this final walk proceeds down through a tree-clad gorge below the castle back to Mystras. Here you lunch al fresco in a garden taverna before beginning the four-hour drive back to Athens, which includes a brief stop in Ancient Corinth.

The venue for the final dinner is a taverna in the heart of the bustling Saturday night Plaka. It is here where you can celebrate your amazing journey through Southern Greece and where you say farewell to your traveling companions.
Herodion Hotel, Athens

DAY 9

Departure is on your own anytime today. This is an ideal day to take advantage of the many attractions on your doorstep in Athens—visiting the Acropolis, a museum, or shopping in the Plaka.