France, Italy & Switzerland: The Mont Blanc Circuit

DAY 1

You meet in Chamonix and transfer by bus to the nearby village of Les Houches for a cable car ascent to Bellevue (literally “beautiful view”), and the start of the hiking circuit. Today’s hike offers exceptional views of the Aiguille (“needle”) de Bionnassay, with its dramatic glacier and soaring rock spires. The route also provides an excellent introduction to the unique flora of this region. Martagon lily, mastervort, and gentian are among the flowers that adorn the mountainsides, and are protected as an integral part of this incredible area. You traverse varied terrain, including narrow paths, rocky glacial debris, and a suspension bridge with breathtaking views of the Col de Tricot, perfectly shaped as a saddle. The trail then descends toward the hamlet of Champel, nicely shaded by a coniferous forest.

Following lunch, you continue through tiny villages, boasting alpine architecture and lovely gardens overflowing with ripe vegetables. Your destination is the lovely village of Les Contamines-Montjoie, once home to chamois hunters, and today a popular mountaineering and ski resort.

You are welcomed at a cozy hotel nestled in the Montjoie Valley. There is time to relax before an excellent dinner of Savoy regional cuisine, which nourishes you for the next stage.
Hôtel La Chemenaz, Les Contamines-Montjoie, France

DAY 2

After an early breakfast, you transfer by minibus to the end of the valley and the start of what may be one of the most challenging hikes of the tour. The trail begins at the chapel of Notre Dame de la Gorge, a pilgrimage site at the foot of the Gorge de Bon Nant. From the church you walk along an old Roman road that climbs steadily through a beautiful conifer forest. Leaving the woods, you cross broad level alpine pasture, passing rustic chalets as you make your way to La Balme. You continue the ascent, pausing occasionally to look back on the dramatic valley below, or snack on tasty alpine chocolate. By mid-day you reach the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (8,180 feet), where you stop to take in the breathtaking panorama.

Lunch is served at a refuge or as a picnic in an alpine meadow. With the most difficult part of the day complete, you relish the views over a salad with local cheese and meats, or omelette à la Savoyarde, before meandering down to the valley.

The day’s final destination is Les Chapieux, a summer village at the southern limit of the Mont Blanc massif. You can relax at a lively outdoor café with a refreshing panaché (beer and lemonade) or soothe your feet in the nearby glacial stream. In order to remain on the official Mont Blanc circuit, you spend the night in a simple classic alpine refuge with limited facilities (no private baths or single accommodations). However, you are rewarded with some of the most beautiful views of the week, warm hospitality, and delicious cuisine. Dinner may feature free-range chicken prepared with herbs and roasted potatoes, accompanied by a locally produced vintage.
Auberge-Refuge de la Nova, Les Chapieux, France

DAY 3

Today you say “au revoir” to France, and “buongiorno” as you enter the Aosta region of Italy, tracing the footsteps of countless Roman legionnaires. The hike begins at La Ville des Glaciers after a short transfer, and climbs eastward. After 2½ hours, you reach the Col de la Seigne (8,300 feet). This “hill” with a broad, flat landscape, represents a saddle of transfluence between the ancient glaciers that extended along the Aosta and Savoy slopes. You descend along an easy winding trail to the Elisabetta Refuge, a spectacularly situated stone chalet beneath the Aiguille of Combal. Lunch is in an area dominated by some of the most impressive summits of the Alps. The valley enjoys a certain regional autonomy, and French is spoken by its friendly population.

You continue on foot to La Visaille, at the base of the spectacular Glacier of Miage (whose snow-capped domes you saw for the first time two days ago), where you transfer to the resort of Courmayeur, Italy’s elegant counterpart to Chamonix. This evening you reunite for a dinner of Italian mountain specialties at a local restaurant.
Hôtel Berthod, Courmayeur, Italy

DAY 4

Today is a rest day, and you have the opportunity to explore the charming Italian resort of Courmayeur. You may choose to peruse the local shops for souvenirs of the Mont Blanc hiking circuit, sit at a sidewalk terrace to taste a delicious gelato, or simply relax in the hotel’s sauna or Jacuzzi.

If you prefer to walk, your guides offer a hike in the surrounding area (the mileage and level of difficulty will vary depending upon the group’s interests) with a stop for an independent lunch.

This evening, you are free to dine on your own at one of the town’s many fine pizzerias or trattorias.
Hôtel Berthod, Courmayeur, Italy

DAY 5

Following a buffet breakfast of local specialties, a 45-minute drive takes you to Arnova and the start of today’s hike. Exploration of the Val Ferret continues along a winding footpath with a view of the Pré de Bar, the imposing granite peaks of Mont Dolent (12,543 feet), and the Grandes Jorasses. A charming Italian hut is a perfect rest stop where you can try one of their famous hot chocolates. The climb continues through meadows home to alpine wildlife ranging from the talkative marmot to the agile chamois, which may be seen frolicking on the glacier after crossing the Grand Col Ferret (8,321 feet). This pass, in use for several centuries, serves as the Italian-Swiss border between Val D’Aosta and the canton of Valais. The descent brings you along a trail with a profusion of wildflowers and the sound of Swiss cow bells echoing across the hillside. This is truly "Heidi" country, its tidy chalets with geraniums spilling from the window boxes to greet you as you enter the sleepy village of Ferret.

At this point you transfer by minivan to Champex, an attractive summer resort on a lake with the same name. Here there is time to relax, swim, or take advantage of the Jacuzzi before dinner at this comfortable, family-run hotel.
Hôtel du Glacier, Champex-Lac, Switzerland

DAY 6

The hike today begins right at the doorstep of your hotel in the picturesque town of Champex. A coniferous trail winds north across alpine pastures providing great views of the town of Martigny and the Rhône Valley and its vineyards. You also catch your first glimpse of the Swiss region of Bernese Oberland’s highest summits. After a picnic lunch in this unparallel setting, you walk to a charming old farm nearby for a cup of coffee or refreshment on their rustic terrace.

Fully re-energized, you start your afternoon hike to the Col de la Forclaz, pronounced “forcl” by the locals and meaning “fork” in Old French, as it is one of the three entrances to the Chamonix Valley, and the only one on the Swiss side. The trail ascends above the tree line, and on a clear day, you see the famous Swiss ski resort of Verbier in the distance. Farther along the trail, you might stop for a moment and watch black Hérens cows fight for the title of “Queen”— this consists of two of these strong, bull-looking females pushing each other until the weakest steps backwards. After a few minutes aboard a minivan to rest your legs at the end of the hike, you reach the day’s final destination, Finhaut, once a famous destination for English and Belgium aristocracy, now a small village.

Your lodging for the evening is a simple family-run inn, where you toast the day’s accomplishment with a glass of Fendant, the fine local wine for which the area is famous, before a simple and comforting dinner.
Hôtel Beau-Séjour, Finhaut, Switzerland

DAY 7

Today starts with a short transfer as you leave Switzerland. The trail rises gradually from the secluded valley of Trient in Switzerland, where the imposing village church seems to be the only beacon in this entirely green, lush environment. You pass through a tranquil larch forest with many switchbacks before arriving to the Col de Balme in France. This area offers splendid views of the Aiguille Verte and Aiguilles Rouges (the “green” and “red” needles, or peaks) surrounding Mont Blanc. The latter is named after the distinctive reddish color of the granite in the morning sun. Upon descending to the village of Tour, you have the option of using a cable car or you may continue walking on the slopes of the Balme ski area.

Your home tonight is in the village of Argentière, literally argent or silver in French, as it was once the site of a silver mine. Our simple hotel is in the town center and dinner is at a restaurant next door.
Hôtel de la Couronne, Argentière, France

DAY 8

The final stage of the circuit is one of the most beautiful, with the Lac Blanc (White Lake) being the highlight. Most people seek the famed reflection of the mountains in the lake’s still waters, which often remain frozen until the end of June. By August though, most of the lake is free from ice and snow, and the views of the Mont Blanc massif from this vantage point are breathtaking.

Over lunch, you work together to identify the various aiguilles and peaks that have been part of the journey this past week. Following lunch, you descend along a rocky trail for 1½ hours to La Flégère cable car for a panoramic ride into the valley. It is a leisurely walk along the glacially fed Arve River to Chamonix, where an inviting, heated swimming pool awaits your arrival at the luxurious four-star hotel. Reuniting for a farewell feast, you can indulge to your heart’s content after completing almost 60 miles of walking.
Hôtel Mont-Blanc, Chamonix, France

DAY 9

After a plentiful buffet breakfast, you are free to continue your exploration of Chamonix, or depart for your next destination.